For the longest time, Antique has been associated with the word “Aswang” and I think people there just generally accepted that thinking.

My friends were telling me scary stories before my travel, telling me not to push through. I’m all the more thrilled, though.

I did not stay in Malalison Island as I (mentally) originally planned. That was probably the best decision I made since I became impulsive about life. Of course that is immemorial.

I arrived in Culasi port at around 4:30 in the afternoon with five very bubbly college students, a friendly couple, and of course the boatmen that weren’t really helpful from the island.

I’ve read many blogs that tell readers that the best way to go to Tibiao is to take a tricycle to the boundary of Culasi and Tibiao, and take another tricycle to  barangay Importante, then finally ride a habal-habal.

Friends, I discovered a better and much cheaper way to go back to Tibiao.

From Culasi port, ride a tricycle to Ceres bus terminal. Fare is Php 9.00, regardless if you’re alone or not. Each person should pay Php 9.00. The drivers there are honest, they will not rip you off.

Wait for the bus bound for Iloilo. Tell the driver to drop you off at barangay Importante. Fare is Php 20.00.

At the drop-off point, there are habal-habal (motorcycle) riders waiting for passengers. Tell the driver in line on where your homestay is. The fare is Php 70.00. The habal-habal can only fit one person, though.

You need to stop at a certain checkpoint to pay for environmental fee of Php 50.00. Don’t lose the receipt. You will have to show the OR number to the barangay officials if you want to hike Bugtong- bato Falls.

I really did not have any homestay reservation but I made a mental note before leaving Manila that I want to stay in La Escapo Lodge. It turns out that the owner of the lodge is the barangay captain of Brgy. Tuno, Tibiao, Antique.

The barangay captain’s family manages the lodge. They actually built (big) kubos  near the lodges so you don’t have to worry about your safety and security. It is a gated homestay.

It was a Tuesday, I went there without a reservation, and I was thanking the universe for not failing me that time. I had a cottage by myself, near the river, where all you can hear are the crickets and birds chirping, and that calming sound of water flowing from below.

The owners will ask you if you want to avail of their meals. Of course, I did. Also, tell them what time you’d prefer to use one of their Kawas. I chose the next morning.

You need to pay for the cottage and hot bath. For the night, I only paid Php. 450. Php 200 for the cottage and Php 250 for the Kawa bath.

Also, the very accommodating family will ask you if you want to hike Bugtong-bato falls. They told me to wake up early the next day (preferably 6:00 AM) so I won’t be bothered by the heat of the sun when hiking.

With all the dread from not sleeping the night before to catching the flight to bearing the 5-hour butt-numbing ride to Antique, no better way to cap the day off with a massage. Php 350 is a good catch, right?

THE NEXT DAY

I woke up early. Thinking that I will be going straight to hike, I went to the waiting area; I was greeted by the genuine smiles of the owners. They told me that it is better to eat first so I’ll have the energy to hike. The breakfast was FREE!

Kuya Jay-ar, one of the sons of the owner, accompanied me to the barangay hall where we walked for 10 minutes. You have to bring the environmental fee receipt!

Just like in Malalison, the guides for Bugtong-bato Falls need to write their names in the register provided by the barangay council. Whoever first in the list will be the guide.

Apparently, it was the first Wednesday of the month and all the guides and barangay officials need to convene for a general cleaning in the barangay. All the guides were not available so the locals in Brgy. Tubo who are not really guides are allowed to guide tourists for the day. The guide fee is Php 150. Please be thoughtful! 

My guide was Jing-jing. She is two years older than me. She graduated with a Bachelor in Education degree but even four years after, she cannot land a job. The competition for teaching positions is tight, she said.

She was very responsive to my questions. She was also very helpful and I have learned a lot from her. Together with Jingjing, I hiked for 30 minutes to these views.

The water was freezing cold!

Side story: Through the hike, I met Ma’am Karmila Rose Dimamay, Tibiao’s former tourism officer and town councilor (she’s so pretty and very down to earth). She is an advocate of #OneAntique and is really a wander girl whilst an adventure-seeker, just the same. 

We stayed in the third falls for good 30 minutes, talking about more adventures I can try out in Antique. We walked together back to the lodge. Ma’am Karmi walks fast so Jing-jing and I were left behind.

Reaching the houses halfway through our descent, we saw Ma’am Karmi sweeping dried mango leaves. Then a local offered us coffee.

While sipping a local coffee partnered with Antique’s muscavado given to us by a local for FREE (no better way to take a short break fom hiking), she told me a story that I wouldn’t have known (about the origin of Kawa baths) otherwise.

I’ve heard from childhood of stories about Aswangs and other Enkantos, most of which, they say, live in the mountains of Antique. It is in these Kawas where they cook their victims, I’ve been told.

Years ago, Tibiao’s main crop was sugarcane and townspeople get their income from making muscavados, which are cooked through Kawas.

Realizing that the town is rich in irrigation, they switched to planting rice crops. The locals’ income drastically increased then.

So gradually, Kawas came of no or too little use. But some time in the 90’s (or 80’s?), a foreigner who now owns the Kayak Inn saw an opportunity to make a living out of these useful tubs. It was also because Tibiao used to conduct a yearly Kayak competition. The participants, out from the cold water of the river, were looking for ways to relax, hence the discovery of Kawa Hot Bath.

After the exchange of relevant information, we went back to La Escapo Lodge.

They were preparing my Kawa bath then.

Waiting for my bath, I decided to go down the river to just check it out. Little did I know that the floating cottage was newly-built and because Ma’am Karmi was there, the barangay captain let us ride it, FOR FREE!

I swam in the river, too!

FINALLY THE KAWA BATH!

I ate lunch at the lodge and went back to Iloilo around 12:00 PM. I “checked-out”, and guys, I only paid Php 530.00 for the massage, dinner, and lunch!

The owners will call a habal-habal driver for you. The fare is the same, Php 75. Wait for Iloilo-bound vans in the arc of Barangay Importante. However if you want to go to Roxas or Aklan (Boracay), go back to the Ceres Bus Terminal in Culasi.

I reached Iloilo at 5:00 PM ~

I went to Gigantes Island the next day! *winks*